IFSC Climbing World Championships

Not to be confused with IFSC Climbing World Cup.
For similar championships for climbers under age of 20, see IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships.
IFSC Climbing World Championships
Seasons
Disciplines
Most gold medals
Janja Garnbret (8)

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking.[1][2][3][4] The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

History

Creation and organizers

In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the competition climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competition climbing.[5]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

Events

The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events.[1][2][3] In 2018, a specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking[6][7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which was used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

In 2011, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships were established. The event is usually held alongside the open class competition. Para athletes compete in lead only, except for 2011 when a speed climbing competition was held as well.

Years

The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.

Championships

Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
Event L S B C Para
1 1991 Frankfurt 1–2 October 2 X X - - - 110 22 [8]
2 1993 Innsbruck 29–30 April 2 X X - - - 127 23 [9]
3 1995 Geneva 5–6 May 2 X X - - - 135 24 [10]
4 1997 Paris 31 January–1 February 2 X X - - - 153 26 [11]
5 1999 Birmingham 2–3 December 2 X X - - - 180 30 [12]
6 2001 Winterthur 5–8 September 3 X X X - - 198 25 [13]
7 2003 Chamonix 9–13 July 3 X X X - - 241 34 [14]
8 2005 Munich 1–5 July 3 X X X - - 318 51 [15]
9 2007 Avilés 17–23 September 3 X X X - - 302 50 [16]
10 2009 Xining 30 June – 5 July 4 X X X - - 219 44 [17]
11 2011 Arco 15–24 July 4 X X X - X 374 56 [18]
12 2012 Paris 12–16 September 5 X X X X X 331 56 [19][1]
13 2014 Munich 21–23 August 1 - - X - - 509 52 [1] [20][2]
Gijón 8–14 September 4 X X - X X [2]
14 2016 Paris 14–18 September 5 X X X X X 533 53 [3] [21][3][22]
15 2018 Innsbruck 6–16 September 5 X X X X X 834 58 [4] [23][4]
16 2019 Briançon 16–17 July 1 - - - - X
Hachioji 11–21 August 4 X X X X - 253 39 [5] Archived 20 April 2021 at the Wayback Machine [24][25]
17 2021 Moscow 15–21 September 5 X X X X X [26]
18 2023 Bern 1–12 August 5 X X X X X [6]
19 2025 Seoul[27] 5 X X X X X
20 2027 Brno[28] 5 X X X X X

Medals

As of 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships (excluding paraclimbing medals)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Russia16142353
2 Austria157830
3 France14171748
4 Ukraine117523
5 Slovenia97521
6 Czech Republic610420
7 Japan69823
8 Italy6129
9 Poland54918
10 China54110
11 Spain4509
12 United States39416
13 South Korea35412
14 Switzerland3159
15 Canada3104
16 Belgium2608
17 Germany25916
18 Iran1124
19 Indonesia1012
20 Kazakhstan0134
21 Venezuela0101
22 Great Britain0044
23 Serbia0022
24 Netherlands0011
Totals (24 entries)115115117347

Note 1: share medals in 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships

Note 2: one silver medal in 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships for Climbing Federation of Russia

Men's results

Lead

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 François Legrand Yuji Hirayama Guido Köstermeyer
1993 François Legrand (2) Stefan Glowacz Yuji Hirayama
1995 François Legrand (3) Arnaud Petit Elie Chevieux
1997 François Petit Chris Sharma François Legrand
1999 Bernardino Lagni Yuji Hirayama Maksym Petrenko
2001 Gérôme Pouvreau Tomáš Mrázek François Petit
2003 Tomáš Mrázek Patxi Usobiaga David Caude
2005 Tomáš Mrázek (2) Patxi Usobiaga Alexandre Chabot
2007 Ramón Julián Patxi Usobiaga Cédric Lachat
Tomáš Mrázek
Jorg Verhoeven
2009 Patxi Usobiaga Adam Ondra David Lama
2011 Ramón Julián (2) Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra
2012 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl Adam Ondra
2014 Adam Ondra Ramón Julián Sachi Amma
2016 Adam Ondra (2) Jakob Schubert Gautier Supper
2018 Jakob Schubert (2) Adam Ondra Alexander Megos
2019 Adam Ondra (3) Alexander Megos Jakob Schubert
2021 Jakob Schubert (3) Luka Potočar Hamish McArthur
2023 Jakob Schubert (4) Sorato Anraku Alexander Megos

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Hans Florine Jacky Godoffe Kairat Rachmetov
1993 Vladimir Netsvetaïev Serik Kazbekov Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1995 Andrey Vedenmeer Milan Benian Vladimir Netsvetaïev
1997 Daniel Andrada Yevgen Kryvosheytsev Dmitrij Byčkov
1999 Vladimir Zakharov Vladimir Netsvetaïev Alexey Gadeev
2001 Maksym Styenkovyy Vladimir Zakharov Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Maksym Styenkovyy (2) Tomasz Oleksy Alexandr Pechekhonov
2005 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Maksym Styenkovyy Sergey Sinitsyn
2007 Zhong Qixin Manuel Escobar Sergey Sinitsyn
2009 (10 m) Zhong Qixin (2) Alexandr Nigmatulin Ivan Novikov
2009 (15 m)[29] Zhong Qixin (3) Sergey Abdrakhmanov Ning Zhang
2011 Zhong Qixin (4) Stanislav Kokorin Danyil Boldyrev
2012 Zhong Qixin (5) Libor Hroza Dmitry Timofeev
2014 Danyil Boldyrev Stanislav Kokorin Reza Alipour
2016 Marcin Dzieński Reza Alipour Alexandr Shikov
2018 Reza Alipour Bassa Mawem Stanislav Kokorin
2019 Ludovico Fossali Jan Kříž Stanislav Kokorin
2021 Danyil Boldyrev (2) Erik Noya Cardona Noah Bratschi
2023 Matteo Zurloni Long Jinbao Rahmad Adi Mulyono

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 Mauro Calibani Frédéric Tuscan Christian Core
2003 Christian Core Jérôme Meyer Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Salavat Rachmetov Kilian Fischhuber Gérôme Pouvreau
2007 Dmitri Sarafutdinov Martin Stráník Cédric Lachat
2009 Alexey Rubtsov Rustam Gelmanov David Barrans
2011 Dmitri Sarafutdinov (2) Adam Ondra Rustam Gelmanov
2012 Dmitri Sarafutdinov (3) Kilian Fischhuber Rustam Gelmanov
2014 Adam Ondra Jernej Kruder Jan Hojer
2016 Tomoa Narasaki Adam Ondra Manuel Cornu
2018 Kai Harada Jongwon Chon Gregor Vezonik
2019 Tomoa Narasaki (2) Jakob Schubert Yannick Flohé
2021 Kokoro Fujii Tomoa Narasaki Manuel Cornu
2023 Mickael Mawem Mejdi Schalck Lee Do-hyun

Combined

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012[1] Sean McColl Thomas Tauporn Cédric Lachat
2014[2] Sean McColl (2) Jan Hojer Alban Levier
2016[3][22] Sean McColl (3) Manuel Cornu David Firnenburg
2018[4] Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra Jan Hojer
2019 Tomoa Narasaki Jakob Schubert Rishat Khaibullin
2021 Yannick Flohé Philipp Martin Fedir Samoilov
2023 Jakob Schubert (2) Colin Duffy Tomoa Narasaki

Women's Results

Lead

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Susi Good Isabelle Patissier Robyn Erbesfield
1993 Susi Good (2) Robyn Erbesfield Isabelle Patissier
1995 Robyn Erbesfield Laurence Guyon Liv Sansoz
1997 Liv Sansoz Muriel Sarkany Marietta Uhden
1999 Liv Sansoz (2) Muriel Sarkany Yelena Ovchinnikova
2001 Martina Čufar Muriel Sarkany Chloé Minoret
2003 Muriel Sarkany Emilie Pouget Sandrine Levet
2005 Angela Eiter Emily Harrington Akiyo Noguchi
2007 Angela Eiter (2) Muriel Sarkany Maja Vidmar
2009 Johanna Ernst Kim Ja-in Maja Vidmar
2011 Angela Eiter (3) Kim Ja-in Magdalena Röck
2012 Angela Eiter (4) Kim Ja-in Johanna Ernst
2014 Kim Ja-in Mina Markovič Magdalena Röck
2016 Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven Mina Markovič
2018 Jessica Pilz Janja Garnbret Kim Ja-in
2019 Janja Garnbret (2) Mia Krampl Ai Mori
2021 Seo Chae-hyun Natalia Grossman Laura Rogora
2023 Ai Mori Janja Garnbret Seo Chae-hyun

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Isabelle Dorsimond Agnès Brard Venera Chereshneva
1993 Olga Bibik Isabelle Dorsimond Renata Piszczek
1995 Natalie Richer Cécile Avezou Renata Piszczek
1997 Tatiana Ruyga Irina Zaytseva Olga Bibik
1999 Olga Zakharova Olena Ryepko Natalia Novikova
2001 Olena Ryepko Maya Piratinskaya Svetlana Sutkina
2003 Olena Ryepko (2) Tatiana Ruyga Valentina Yurina
2005 Olena Ryepko (3) Valentina Yurina Edyta Ropek
2007 Tatiana Ruyga (2) Edyta Ropek Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m) He Cuilian He Cuifang Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m) He Cuilian (2) He Cuifang Li Chunhua
2011 Maria Krasavina Anna Tsyganova Tamara Kuznetsova
2012 Yulia Levochkina Iuliia Kaplina Natalia Titova
2014 Alina Gaidamakina Klaudia Buczek Aleksandra Rudzińska (later with last name: Mirosław)
2016 Anna Tsyganova Anouck Jaubert Iuliia Kaplina
2018 Aleksandra Mirosław Anna Brożek Maria Krasavina
2019 Aleksandra Mirosław (2) Di Niu Anouck Jaubert
2021 Natalia Kałucka Iuliia Kaplina Aleksandra Mirosław
2023 Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi Emma Hunt Aleksandra Mirosław

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 Myriam Motteau Sandrine Levet Nataliya Perlova
2003 Sandrine Levet Nataliya Perlova Fanny Rogeaux
2005 Olga Shalagina Julija Abramčuková Věra Kotasová-Kostruhová
2007 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi Olga Bibik
2009 Julija Abramčuková Olga Shalagina Anna Stöhr
2011 Anna Stöhr (2) Sasha DiGiulian Juliane Wurm
2012 Mélanie Sandoz Olga Yakovleva Anna Stöhr
2014 Juliane Wurm Alex Puccio Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Petra Klingler Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Staša Gejo
2019 Janja Garnbret (2) Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey
2021 Natalia Grossman Camilla Moroni Staša Gejo
2023 Janja Garnbret (3) Oriane Bertone Brooke Raboutou

Combined

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012 Kim Ja-in Cécile Avezou Petra Klingler
2014[2] Charlotte Durif Petra Klingler Mina Markovič
2016[3][22] Jelena Krasovská Claire Buhrfeind Charlotte Durif
2018[4] Janja Garnbret Sa Sol Jessica Pilz
2019 Janja Garnbret (2) Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey
2021 Jessica Pilz Mia Krampl Elnaz Rekabi
2023 Janja Garnbret (3) Jessica Pilz Ai Mori

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). [email protected]. Archived (PDF) from the original on 17 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  2. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  3. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 July 2017. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  5. ^ "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
  6. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Men". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  7. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Women". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  8. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Frankfurt 1991". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  9. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Innsbruck 1993". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  10. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Genève 1995". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  11. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Paris 1997". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 27 September 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  12. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Birmingham (GBR) 1999". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  13. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Winterthur (SUI) 2001". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  14. ^ "UIAA Worldchampionship – Chamonix (FRA) 2003". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  15. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Munich (GER) 2005". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) – Aviles (ESP) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 27 September 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 1 June 2015. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 5 March 2014. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  20. ^ "World Championships".
  21. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  22. ^ a b c "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). [email protected]. Archived (PDF) from the original on 19 October 2016. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  24. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  26. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  27. ^ "2025 Climbing World Championships to be held in Seoul". IFSC. 1 April 2023. Retrieved 18 June 2025.
  28. ^ "2027 World Championships to be held in Brno, Czechia". IFSC. 11 April 2025. Retrieved 18 June 2025.
  29. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 – 15 m Speed".
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