UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup

2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup, Cheongsong.
Speed ice climbing on natural ice
Lead ice climbing on a dry surface

The Ice Climbing World Cup (or UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, or IWC) is an annual ice climbing competition organized by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), who has regulated and governed the sport of competition ice climbing since the first IWC in 2000. It is the ice climbing equivalent of the IFSC Climbing World Cup in rock climbing.[1][2]

Structure

The IWC is organized as an annual tour consisting of three to six events throughout the season (the number has varied over the years), in which men's and women's lead climbing and speed climbing competitions are held. The lead climbing routes are held on largely bolted dry artificial surfaces (with some natural ice features) and thus employ dry-tooling techniques.[3] The speed-climbing routes are on a standardized 12-18 meter (40-50 foot) wall of solid ice that takes seconds for top roped ice climbers to complete (as per speed rock climbing).[3][4]

Over the years, the UIAA has increased the regulation and use around competition ice climbing equipment, including the prohibition of leashes on ice tools (so they cannot be used as aid), and increased controls on the use of "heel spurs" while climbing (to counter their use for resting).[5]

Men's results

Lead

Year Winner Second Third
2000 Will Gadd
2001 Daniel Du Lac
2002 Dimitri Bytchkov
Harald Berger
2003 Harald Berger Alexey Tomilov Dimitri Bytchkov
2004 no world tour
2005 no world tour
2006 Harald Berger Simon Wandler Markus Bendler
2007 Evgeny Kriovsheitsev Markus Bendler Alexey Tomilov
2008 Simon Anthamatten Markus Bendler Evgeny Kriovsheitsev
2009 Markus Bendler Park Hee Yong Alexey Tomilov
2010 Markus Bendler Park Hee Yong Maxim Tomilov
2011 Park Hee Yong Maxim Tomilov Markus Bendler
2012 Maxim Tomilov Alexey Tomilov Park Hee Yong
2013 Park Hee Yong Maxim Tomilov Valentyn Sypavin
2014 Maxim Tomilov Park Hee Yong Alexey Tomilov
2015 Maxim Tomilov Park Hee Yong Alexey Tomilov
2016 Maxim Tomilov Hee Yong Park Janez Svoljsak
2017 Park Hee Yong Nikolai Kuzovlev Maxim Tomilov
2018 Maxim Tomilov Alexey Tomilov Mohamadreza Safdarian Korouyeh
2019 Nikolai Kuzovlev Park Hee Yong Yannick Glatthard
2020 Louna Ladevant Nikolai Kuzovlev Kwon Younghye
2023 Louna Ladevant Park Hee Yong Benjamin Bosshard
2024 Younggeon Lee Keenan Griscom Virgile Devin
2025 Benjamin Bosshard Younggeon Lee Louna Ladevant

Speed

Year Winner Second Third
2006 Maxim Vlasov Urs Odermatt Igor Fayzullin
2007 Alexander Matveev Nikolay Shved Igor Fayzullin
2008 Matevz Vukotic Maxim Tomilov Kirill Kolchegoshev
2009 Pavel Gulyaev
2010 Pavel Gulyaev Pavel Batushev Igor Fayzullin
2011 Pavel Batushev Pavel Gulyaev Maxim Tomilov
2012 Kirill Kolchegoshev Alexey Tomilov Pavel Batushev
2013 Egor Trapeznikov Ivan Spitsyn Pavel Gulyaev
2014 Nikolay Kuzovlev Vladimir Kartashev Alexey Vagin
2015 Nikolay Kuzovlev Vladimir Kartashev Egor Trapeznikov
2016 Maxim Tomilov Alexey Vagin Vladimir Kartashev
2017 Vladimir Kartashev Radomir Proshchenko* Leonid Malykh
2018 Nikolay Kuzovlev Ivan Spitsyn Anton Nemov
2019 Anton Nemov Nikolay Kuzovlev Vladislav Iurlov
2020 Anton Nemov Nikita Glazyrin Nikolay Kuzovlev
2023 Mohsen Beheshti Rad Myungwook Yang Mohammad Reza Safdarian
2024 Mandakhbayar Chuluunbaatar Mohammad Reza Safdarian Mohsen Beheshti Rad
2025 Mandakhbayar Chuluunbaatar Mohammad Reza Safdarian Kherlen Nyamdoo

* 2017: 2. Pavel Batushev doping

Women's results

Lead

Year Winner Second Third
2000 Kim Csizmazia
2001 Ines Papert
2002 Ksenia Sdobnikova Ines Papert
2003 Ines Papert Ksenia Sdobnikova Kirsten Buchmann
2004 no world tour
2005 no world tour
2006 Ines Papert Anna Torretta Stephanie Maureau
2007 Jenny Lavarda Petra Müller Stephanie Maureau
2008 Jenny Lavarda Petra Müller Natalya Kulikova
2009 Maria Tolokonina Angelika Rainer Stephanie Maureau
2010 Anna Gallyamova Angelika Rainer Stephanie Maureau
2011 Anna Gallyamova Lucie Hrozova Shin Woon Seon
2012 Angelika Rainer Maria Tolokonina Anna Gallyamova
2013 Maria Tolokonina Angelika Rainer Shin Woon Seon
2014 Maria Tolokonina Angelika Rainer Shin Woon Seon
2015 Angelika Rainer Petra Klingler Song Han Na Rai
2016 Maria Tolokonina Ekaterina Vlasova Song Han Na Rai
2017 Song Han Na Rai Angelika Rainer Maria Tolokonina
2018 Shin Woon Seon Maria Tolokonina Song Han Na Rai
2019 Maria Tolokonina Shin Woon Seon Eimir McSwiggan
2020 Maria Tolokonina Shin Woon Seon Sina Goetz
2023 Petra Klingler Sina Goetz Shin Woon Seon
2024 Shin Woon Seon Sina Goetz Marion Thomas
2025 Sina Goetz Shin Woon Seon Marianne van der Steen

Speed

Year Winner Second Third
2006 Julia Oleynikova Natalya Kulikova Maria Shabalina
2007 Maria Shabalina Maria Muravyeva Maryam Filippova
2008 Maria Tolokonina
2009 Maria Tolokonina Maryam Filippova Julia Oleynikova
2010 Nadezda Shubina Viktoria Shabalina Maryam Filippova
2011 Maria Tolokonina Natalya Kulikova Irina Bagaeva
2012 Maryam Filippova Maria Krasavina Maria Tolokonina
2013 Julia Oleynikova Maryam Filippova Ekaterina Feoktistova
2014 Maryam Filippova Ekaterina Feoktistova Natalya Kulikova
2015 Ekaterina Feoktistova Ekaterina Koshcheeva Maria Krasavina
2016 Maria Tolokonina Ekaterina Koshcheeva Maryam Filippova
2017 Maria Tolokonina
Ekaterina Koshcheeva
Ekaterina Feoktistova
2018 Ekaterina Koshcheeva Natalya Kulikova Ekaterina Feoktistova
2019 Ekaterina Koshcheeva Maria Tolokonina Natalja Savická
2020 Maria Tolokonina Valerija Bogdanová Alena Vlasova
2023 Vivien Labarile Olga Kosek Marion Thomas
2024 Aneta Louzecka Olga Kosek Lorena Beck
2025 Selenge Nyamdoo Catalina Shirley Aneta Louzecka

See also

References

  1. ^ "A Brief History". International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  2. ^ Reitemeier, Meredith (20 February 2019). "Can Anyone Beat the Russians at the Ice Climbing World Cup in Denver this Weekend?". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 10 May 2023.
  3. ^ a b Buhay, Corey (10 March 2020). "The Strange Underworld of Competition Ice Climbing". Outside. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  4. ^ Buhay, Corey (14 March 2019). "Fish Out of Ice: A Beginner Takes on the Ice Climbing World Cup". Climbing. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  5. ^ "UIAA Statement on Competition Ice Climbing". International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. 30 August 2022. Retrieved 5 May 2023.