Kanjut Sar

Kanjut Sar
کنجت سر
Yukshin Gardan Sar (background left) and Kanjut Sar (background centre)
Highest point
Elevation7,760 m (25,460 ft)[1]
Ranked 28th
Prominence1,660 m (5,450 ft)[1]
Listing
Coordinates36°12′18″N 75°25′06″E / 36.20500°N 75.41833°E / 36.20500; 75.41833[1]
Geography
Kanjut Sar
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar (Gilgit Baltistan)
30km
19miles
Pakistan
India
48
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend:
1:K22:Gasherbrum I, K53:Broad Peak4:Gasherbrum II, K45:Gasherbrum III, K3a6:Gasherbrum IV, K37:Distaghil Sar8:Kunyang Chhish9:Masherbrum, K110:Batura Sar, Batura I11:Rakaposhi12:Batura II13:14:Saltoro Kangri, K1015:Batura III16: Saser Kangri I, K2217:Chogolisa18:Shispare19:Trivor Sar20:Skyang Kangri21:Mamostong Kangri, K3522:Saser Kangri II23:Saser Kangri III24:Pumari Chhish25:Passu Sar26:Yukshin Gardan Sar27:Teram Kangri I28:Malubiting29:K1230:Sia Kangri31:Momhil Sar32:Skil Brum33:Haramosh Peak34:Ghent Kangri35:Ultar Sar36:Rimo massif37:Sherpi Kangri38:Yazghil Dome South39:Baltoro Kangri40:Crown Peak41:Baintha Brakk42:Yutmaru Sar43:K644:Muztagh Tower45:Diran46:Apsarasas Kangri I47:Rimo III48:Gasherbrum V

 
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
LocationGilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeHispar Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent1959 by Camillo Pellissier
Easiest routesnow/ice climb
Kanjut Sar
Simplified Chinese坎巨提峰
Transcriptions

Kanjut Sar (Urdu: کنجت سر), or Kunjudh Sar as pronounced in Wakhi, is a mountain located between Shimshal Valley, and Hisper Valley part of the Karakoram mountain range. The name Kunjudh Sar in Wakhi means "that which overlooks Kunjudh", or "above Kunjudh", while Khujudh is the Wakhi name for Central Hunza. It is the 28th-highest mountain in the world. According to many residents of Shimshal, Kanjut Sar is the name of the adjacent peak Yukshin Gardan Sar, and vice versa. In Shimshal village, the original namings are widely accepted and used, as opposed to what is recognised internationally.

Kanjut Sar consists of two peaks:

  • Kanjut Sar I at 7,760 metres (25,459 ft).
  • Kanjut Sar II, to the southeast of I, at 6,831 m (22,411 ft).

Kanjut Sar I was first climbed in 1959 by Camillo Pellissier, member of an Italian expedition directed by Guido Monzino.[2] From 4 to 6 August 1981, seven Japanese climbers of the same expedition climbed to the top.[3]

The first ascent of Kanjut Sar II was achieved by a Swiss team in 1985.[4] Expedition leader Toni Spirig, Ueli Stahel and Richie Ott finally carried it out in alpine style after several attempts . The climbers reached the summit on July 10.[5] The ascent route led over the north-west side.

On July 29, 1990, a Dutch expedition made the second ascent of Kanjut Sar II in alpine style via the south face.[6] Expedition members were Peter Kok, Frank Schmidt, Franck van den Barselaer, Hendrik Freie and Pieter de Kam.

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 5 August 2010.
  2. ^ "Kanjut Sar". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. 12 (1). American Alpine Club: 161. 1960. Retrieved 27 June 2025.
  3. ^ "Kanjut Sar, West Face". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. 24 (56). American Alpine Club: 276. 1982. Retrieved 27 June 2025.
  4. ^ Spirig, Toni (1986). "Pakistan, Kanjut Sar II". American Alpine Journal. 28 (60). American Alpine Club: 282. Retrieved 27 June 2025.
  5. ^ Toni Spirig: Kanjut Sar II. In: American Alpine Journal 1986, S. 282. (AAJO), retrieved 17 November 2012.
  6. ^ Kok, Peter (1991). "Pakistan, Kanjut Sar II". American Alpine Journal. 33. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 27 June 2025.