Chogolisa
| Chogolisa | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Chinese | 喬戈里薩峰 | ||
| Simplified Chinese | 乔戈里萨峰 | ||
| |||
Chogolisa (Urdu: چوگولیزا derived from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is situated near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks.
Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of 7,665 metres (25,148 ft). On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at 7,654 m (25,112 ft) in height and was named "Bride Peak" by Martin Conway in 1892.[3]
Climbing History
In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record[1] which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when Mallory, Norton and Somervell reached 8,200 m (26,903 ft) on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition.[4]
Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face.[5] His body has never been found.[1]
On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.[6][7][8]
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.[9][1]
See also
References
- ^ a b c d "Chogolisa/Bride Peak". Everest News. Retrieved 2004-01-03.
- ^ a b "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2010-08-05.
- ^ Conway, Sir William Martin (1894). Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas. Unwin. Retrieved 26 April 2024.
- ^ Bolinder, Anders (1968). "Height Records". In Barnes, Malcom (ed.). Mountain World 1966/7. George Allen and Unwin Ltd. p. 228. Retrieved 10 February 2025.
- ^ Diemberger, Kurt (1958). "Broad Peak and Chogolisa 1957". Himalayan Journal. #21: 1–15. Retrieved 27 April 2024.
- ^ Kuwabara, Takeo (1959). "The First Ascent of Chogolisa" (PDF). The Alpine Journal: 168.
- ^ "Japanese Conquer Mountain". The New York Times. August 20, 1958. p. 7.
- ^ Kuwabara, Takeo (1959). "Japanese Alpinists in the Himalaya". American Alpine Journal. 11 (2). American Alpine Club: 243. Retrieved 2025-06-26.
- ^ Koblmüller, Eduard (1976). "Chogolisa". American Alpine Journal. 20 (2). American Alpine Club: 537. Retrieved 2025-06-26.