Melhfa

Melhfa, also known as Toungou, Tassaghnist, Laffaya, or Dampé, is a traditional cloth commonly found across the Sahel and Sahara regions of Africa. The melhfa is a long rectangular cloth, typically measuring 4.5 meters by 1.6 meters, skillfully wrapped around the wearer's head and body.

It traditionally served as a means of protection from the harsh weather of the region and is typically made from natural fabrics such as cotton.[1]

Etymology

The Melhfa has different names in the various languages of the region. Across the Maghreb, it is known as melhfa (sometimes spelled Melfha, melafa, meulfeu, or mlahef). In Mauritania and Mali, it is referred to as dampé, while in Northern Nigeria (Arewa), Niger, and Chad, it is known as lafaya or laffaya. The Songhai people call it toungou, and among the Tuareg, it goes by the name tassaghnist.

Origins and Historical Roots

According to UNESCO, the toub traces its origin back to Ancient Sudan,[2] with archaeological evidence and historical accounts linking similar garments to ancient Nubian and Kerma civilizations.[3] Murals and artifacts from the Kingdom of Kush and Meroë depict women in body-length, draped garments, suggesting a longstanding tradition of wrapped attire in the Nile Valley.[4][5][6]

In contemporary Sudan, the plain white toub is often worn by teachers, nurses, and professional women, especially in urban centers. It has come to symbolize education, civic responsibility, modest professionalism and resilience.[7][8][9][10]

Through trans-Saharan trade routes and Islamic cultural exchange, variations of the garment spread from Sudan into Sahel and West Africa around the eleventh century. This was facilitated by centuries of textile trade, movement of peoples, and adoption of Islamic dress codes across the Sahara, resulting in similar wrapped garments becoming markers of identity and modesty in Chad to Mauritania, Mali and northern Nigeria.[11][12][13]

Use

The melhfa is a traditional garment worn by women in the Sahel and Sahara regions of Africa. This flowing veil measures approximately 4.5 meters in length and 1.6 meters in width. Melhfas come in various styles – some reserved for festivals and ceremonies, while others are worn for daily activities. The melhfa wraps gracefully from head to toe, offering comfort in the desert's harsh conditions, with designs specifically crafted to endure the hot, dry climate and shield against cold, sand, and sun. It is an airy and roomy garment.

Among Songhai women, the melhfa, known as toungou in the Songhai language, is worn with traditional headwear such as the goffa, sorgou-sorgou, hilo-hilo, and Zumbu.

In recent years, the Melhfa has become increasingly adorned with intricate embroidery, prominently displayed along its edges or as a pattern on the front or back of the garment. This embellishment, often executed in vibrant colors and geometric shapes, serves as a testament to the artisanal skill involved. The Melhfa has gained considerable popularity in contemporary times, making appearances in fashion shows and being donned by celebrities. This visibility has contributed to heightened awareness of the cultural and craftsmanship elements associated with this garment.

Modern influences have been incorporated into the melhfa, reflecting the changing tastes and preferences of younger generations.[14]

The melhfa is similar to the variety of wraps worn Egypt, commonly called melaya leff (wrapping sheet) in addition to regional names.[15]

References

  1. ^ Mitatre, Claire (2014), El melhfa, Traditional women's clothing of the saharan Morocco, retrieved 2024-01-14
  2. ^ UNESCO. "Nomination file No. 01963 for inscription in 2024 on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity: Toub: Sudanese National Dress for Women" (PDF).
  3. ^ Trigger, Bruce G.; Welsby, Derek A. (2000). "The Kingdom of Kush: The Napatan and Meroitic Empires". The International Journal of African Historical Studies. 33 (1): 212. doi:10.2307/220314. ISSN 0361-7882. JSTOR 220314.
  4. ^ Overjewels. "Nubia - Jewels of Ancient Sudan | Getty Museum - Editorial S". www.overjewels.com. Retrieved 2025-05-31.
  5. ^ Sharkey, Heather J (2003-12-31). Sharkey, Heather J. (ed.). Living with Colonialism. University of California Press. doi:10.1525/9780520929364. ISBN 978-0-520-92936-4.
  6. ^ UNESCO. (2020). Al Toub al Sudani: The Sudanese National Dress for Women [Nomination file for the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity]. https://ich.unesco.org/doc/src/47657-EN.pdf
  7. ^ Hale, Sondra (2018-10-08). Gender Politics In Sudan (0 ed.). Routledge. doi:10.4324/9780429500251. ISBN 978-0-429-96880-8.
  8. ^ Boddy, Janice (2007). Civilizing Women: British Crusades in Colonial Sudan. Princeton University Press. JSTOR j.ctv36zq30.
  9. ^ Sharkey, Heather J (2003-12-31). Sharkey, Heather J. (ed.). Living with Colonialism: Nationalism and Culture in the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan. University of California Press. doi:10.1525/9780520929364. ISBN 978-0-520-92936-4.
  10. ^ "History Stands alongside the Woman in the White Tobe". Stanford University Press Blog. Retrieved 2025-05-31.
  11. ^ Kadish, Gerald E. (1978-12-01). "Nubia: Corridor to Africa. Princeton: Princeton University Press. 1977. Pp. xxiv, 797". The American Historical Review. 83 (5): 1233–1234. doi:10.1086/ahr/83.5.1233. ISSN 1937-5239.
  12. ^ Talebi, Tessa (2024-05-13). "Connecting the Two Sudans: Mobile Histories of Faith, Cotton, and Colonialism". Project on Middle East Political Science. Retrieved 2025-05-31.
  13. ^ Samuel, isaac. "Cloth in African history: the manufacture, patterning and embroidering of Africa's signature textiles". www.africanhistoryextra.com. Retrieved 2025-05-31.
  14. ^ The Traditional Wrap: Toub, Melhfa, Lafaya, Tiyyab..., sonjiki.co.uk, 3 September 2020, retrieved 2024-01-14{{citation}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  15. ^ Rugh, Andrea. Reveal and Conceal; Dress in Contemporary Egypt.
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