Elizabeth Haffenden

Elizabeth Haffenden
Born(1906-04-18)18 April 1906
Croydon, Surrey, England
Died29 May 1976(1976-05-29) (aged 70)
London, England
OccupationCostume designer
Years active1934–1975

Elizabeth Haffenden (18 April 1906 – 29 May 1976) was a British costume designer. Her accolades include two Academy Awards and a BAFTA Award. She is best known for creating the costumes for most of the Gainsborough melodramas.

Life and career

Elizabeth Haffenden was born in Croydon to wholesale draper James Wilson-Haffenden and Edith Carruthers. Elizabeth Haffenden trained at Croydon School of Art and the Royal College of Art. After working as a commercial artist she entered theatre costume design working with Laurence Irving.[1]

Haffenden's first film costume designs were for Colonel Blood (1933, working alongside art directors Laurence Irving and John Bryan.[1] In 1939 she joined Gaumont British film studios, and from 1942–1949 she was in charge of the costume department for the popular cycle of Gainsborough melodramas, produced at Shepherds Bush.[1] These included The Man in Grey (1943) and The Wicked Lady (1945). Costume historian Pam Cook has described Haffenden's Gainsborough projects as "visually splendid ... and the company promoted several of the films on the basis of their costumes". Haffenden's designs for Caravan (1944) and The Wicked Lady (1945) anticipated the post-war new look fashion style, and offered "extravagant sexual display" through low cut bodices and translucent fabrics.[1] Costumes from The Wicked Lady were acquired for the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum.[2]

In the 1950s Haffenden worked as resident costume designer for the British branch of MGM-British studios, Elstree.[3]

From the late 1950s Haffenden worked as a freelance costume designer with Joan Bridge, who had worked as a Technicolor consultant at Gainsborough in 1946, where the pair met.[3] Haffenden and Bridge worked together on period dramas, comedies and thrillers, starting with Ben Hur (1959), which won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design.

Haffenden and Bridge were frequent collaborators with director Fred Zinnemann. They worked on five films for Zinnemann, across a range of periods and locations that required thoughtful costuming, including The Sundowners (1960), set in 1920s Australia, the Spanish-set Behold a Pale Horse (1964), Tudor drama A Man for All Seasons (1966) and the recent history of Day of the Jackal (1973).

Haffenden and Bridge were jointly nominated for British Academy of Film and Television Awards (BAFTA) for The Amorous Adventures of Moll Flanders (1965) and Half a Sixpence (1967), and were awarded a BAFTA and Oscar for A Man for All Seasons (1966).

In subsequent decades Haffenden and Bridge designed costumes for notable films including The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie (1968) and Fiddler on the Roof (1971).[1]

Haffenden died in London on 29 May 1976, while she was prepping costumes for the film Julia.[1]

Filmography

Year Title Director Notes
1936 The Last Waltz Leo Mittler
1942 The Young Mr. Pitt Carol Reed
1943 The Man in Grey Leslie Arliss
Dear Octopus Harold French aka The Randolph Family
1944 Fanny by Gaslight Anthony Asquith
Give Us the Moon Val Guest
Two Thousand Women Frank Launder
Love Story Leslie Arliss
1945 Madonna of the Seven Moons Arthur Crabtree
A Place of One's Own Bernard Knowles
I'll Be Your Sweetheart Val Guest
The Wicked Lady Leslie Arliss
1946 Caravan Arthur Crabtree
Bedelia Lance Comfort
The Magic Bow Bernard Knowles
1947 The Man Within
Jassy
Uncle Silas Charles Frank
1948 Call of the Blood John Clements
Ladislao Vajda
The First Gentleman Alberto Cavalcanti
1949 The Bad Lord Byron David MacDonald
Christopher Columbus
The Spider and the Fly Robert Hamer Haffenden only designed costumes for Nadia Gray
1950 So Long at the Fair Terence Fisher
Antony Darnborough
Portrait of Clare Lance Comfort
1951 The Late Edwina Black Maurice Elvey
1953 Laughing Anne Herbert Wilcox
1954 Beau Brummell Curtis Bernhardt
1955 The Dark Avenger Henry Levin
1956 Bhowani Junction George Cukor
Moby Dick John Huston
1957 Heaven Knows, Mr. Allison
1958 Davy Michael Relph
I Accuse! José Ferrer
1959 Ben-Hur William Wyler
1960 The Sundowners Fred Zinnemann
1962 I Thank a Fool Robert Stevens
1964 Behold a Pale Horse Fred Zinnemann Co-designed with Joan Bridge
1965 The Amorous Adventures of Moll Flanders Terence Young
The Liquidator Jack Cardiff
1966 A Man for All Seasons Fred Zinnemann
1967 Half a Sixpence George Sidney
1968 Chitty Chitty Bang Bang Ken Hughes
1969 The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie Ronald Neame
1971 Fiddler on the Roof Norman Jewison
1972 Pope Joan Michael Anderson
1973 The Day of the Jackal Fred Zinnemann
The Homecoming Peter Hall
1974 Luther Guy Green
1975 Conduct Unbecoming Michael Anderson

Awards and nominations

Award Year Category Work Result Ref.
Academy Awards 1959 Best Costume Design – Color Ben-Hur Won [4]
1966 A Man for All Seasons Won [5]
British Academy Film Awards 1965 Best British Costume Design – Colour The Amorous Adventures of Moll Flanders Nominated [6]
1967 A Man for All Seasons Won [7]
Half a Sixpence Nominated

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f Cook, Pam. "Haffenden [Wilson-Haffenden], Elizabeth (1906–1976), costume designer". Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. doi:10.1093/ref:odnb/9780198614128.001.0001 (inactive 5 May 2025). Retrieved 19 March 2025.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: DOI inactive as of May 2025 (link)
  2. ^ Haffenden, Elizabeth (1945), The Wicked Lady, retrieved 3 April 2025
  3. ^ a b Cook, Pam (1996). Fashioning the nation: costume and identity in British cinema. London: British Film Institute. pp. 129–135. ISBN 978-0-85170-469-2.
  4. ^ "32nd Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (AMPAS). 5 October 2014. Retrieved 4 February 2023.
  5. ^ "39th Academy Awards". Oscars.org. 4 October 2014. Retrieved 4 February 2023.
  6. ^ "19th BAFTA Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved 4 February 2023.
  7. ^ "21st BAFTA Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved 4 February 2023.